Setting the Scene
Desolation Sound is still a key component of this trip, and all the ingredients that have made this area a favourite for paddlers on the BC coast – the warm ocean temperatures, prolific intertidal wildlife, incredible summer sunsets – are still experienced and enjoyed.
Beyond Desolation however, the story builds in scale and grandeur the further you travel every day.
As we paddle up these passages, civilization is left behind and replaced by the remote and the wild. Granite cliffs rise sheer out of the ocean to icy peaks and dramatic mountain cirques formed by hidden glaciers hanging thousands of feet above.
The mountains of Toba Inlet in particular rise more than 7200 feet above us at sea level, and the water drops more than 1600 feet to the ocean floor – an incredibly sheer drop from peak to valley in such short distance. The extremely rare, welcoming pebble beaches that reveal cosy wooded campsites are surrounded by seemingly impenetrable rainforest.
Torrential waterfalls, warm lakes, soaring peaks, thick forests, protected coves and bays, sandy beaches and salmon-bearing rivers are just some of the ecosystems that provide essential habitat for countless and diverse species of wildlife.
Bald eagles are ever-present, seals and sea lions aggregate in huge colonies, while transient killer whales hunt them up and down the coast. Deer, wolves, cougars and black bears roam the forest, while in the remotest regions Grizzly bears feed on fish and vegetation along river banks and estuaries.
The pinnacle of a trip into the mountains, of course, is paddling the bright blue glacial fed waters of Toba Inlet and Pryce Channel. These waters provide breathtaking scenery at every new turn, from the impossibly high peaks of Toba to the serene forested valleys of Pryce Channel. The dramatic waterfalls of the narrow fjord crash with a tremendous roar from these alpine lakes and glaciers high above straight into the ocean below, and depending on the time of year, sometimes cascading hundreds of feet into the inlet itself!
Waking in the morning and sipping coffee beneath these towering mountains and ancient trees is a truly humbling experience – and one not to be missed.